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Tuesday 20 July 2010

Visiting Tai Shan, Shandong Province, China


Tai’an is the gateway town to Tai Shan Mountain, one of the oldest places of worship in China. Emperors, ministers, priests and peasants have all made the gruelling trek up to the very top to offer prayers and light candles and incense to honour the gods. One day is not enough for you to see all things the places has to offer.

Climbing Tai Shan Mountain is long and taxing. You can pass the night at Midway Gate to Heaven (about halfway up the mountain) or on the very peak. The God of Wealth Temple is located at the Midway Gate to Heaven. Ahead of it is the Five Pine Pavilion. This area is where first Emperor of China, Qin Shi Huang, took shelter during a storm.

Just near the pavilion is the Path of Eighteen Bends. This path will lead you to the summit. Along the way you will pass by the Opposing Pines Pavilion, Welcoming Pine and the Archway to Immortality. But you will forget how tiring it is when you see the magnificent sunrise or sunset from the top of the mountain. Further on the path is the Path of Eighteen Bends, a gruelling climb which will take you to the summit. To get to the top, you will go through such surveys as Opposing Pines Pavilion, Welcoming Pine and the Archway to Immortality.



One of the most-visited places in Tai’an is the Dai Temple. Surrounded by centuries old trees, it is a long-established pilgrimage spot on the long route up the mountain. At the very top are sacrificial altars to the god of Tai Shan. The temple, the setting and the whole atmosphere seems to transport you back in time when the emperors of different dynasties would climb the peaks with his followers trailing behind in a flurry of incense and silk banners. The Dai Temple can be accessed via the north gate at the south end of Hongmen Lu. If you get into via the southern gate you will travel along the same path millions of pilgrims have taken throughout the long centuries to reach the temple.



There are two beautiful gardens on both sides of the north gate. The nine-bay Hall of Heavenly Blessing is the main hall that dates back to 1009 CE and is graced a 62 meter long fresco from the Song dynasty nestled in a dark area of the hall. It is an awesome and very artistic depiction of Emperor Zhenzong as the god of Tai Shan with an array of elephants, lions and camels. The temple also keeps a seated statue of the god of Tai Shan with an inscription that says "Dongyue Taishan zhi Shen" ('God of the Eastern Peak Tai Shan'). Please be aware that photography is not allowed here.

As a side note, the Emperor Wudi is believed to have planted the cypress trees that can be seen from the Han Bai courtyard. Past the southern gate is the beautiful Daimiao Fang, an adorned arch with illustrations of lions, dragons and phoenixes that have endured the passing of time.



South of the temple is Taocan Pavilion. It keeps a hall dedicated to images of the Old Mother of Taishan (Taishan Laomu), Bixia and the Jade Lady. Bixia is known as the Princess of the Azure Clouds, a Daoist goddess who has been a powerful influence on women in Shangdong. It is said that if you make the trek up Tai Shan and offer her prayers and lit incense in her name you will live up to 100. The Jade Lady has been worshipped on the mountain for centuries and offerings are still made to her today, especially by women praying for fertility.

Accommodation on Tai Shan can become expensive during the first week in May and October, but the rest of the time you can receive discounts on request. Xianju Hotel is located just beyond the South Gate to Heaven and offers decent rooms and the Shenqi Hotel is the only three star hotel on the peak.

Tai Shan has a special place in the hearts and minds of the Chinese people; with a rich mythological past (including the creation myth of Pan Gu), it has spanned the long centuries influencing religions, politics, art and individuals. This is one of the few places in China where you can marvel at each age of Chinese history and religion, making tai Shan unique and extremely special.

1 comment:

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